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Yosemite bowline: Not as easily checked as figure eight, strongest knot for dynamic rope tension, easy to untie even after taking a punch.
They were all neatly dressed and tied properly. Or does it simply roll the same amount as a regular re-tied 8 (which is why we don't use that not for joining rope together on an abseil)?You may be interested in this web page on knots: (it is quite comprehensive).Except that the stopper introduces a false loop betwen the Fo8 and the stopper. One that's been the cause of (IIRC) two deaths in the last few years - one in a high ropes course where a client was clipped into the false loop instead of the central loop and fell from a zip-line, and another where a novice reaching a multipitch belay was clipped in with a sling via that false loop. > We all know bowline is evil and = certain death :') > It keeps the lose end of the rope out of the way - Just produces another loose end from the stopper> It takes next to no time to tie and little rope. - it's an un-necessary waste of ropeI use a similar logic for the direction I pass the rope through the harness. I have always gone bottom to top mainly out of habit but latterly, and after thinking about it there is a certain logic. If bottom to top it is more likely to fall away and be noticed if the knot is unfinished. (I just tried it, and for a fig8 that has not been finished and which would have had enough tail to do a stopper, the rope reaches my ankle.
I read one report that German climbing competitions only allow a direct Fig-8 tie in after a climber was killed from a bowline coming undone. Yosemite finish figure 8 のNo.1とNo.2の違いは微妙なのですが 違いは ビレイループに至る輪（赤） と ロープ末端（緑） と ビレイヤー側ロープ（黄色） の関係です。 左がNo.1で赤→緑→黄色 右がNo.2で赤→黄色→緑 What I meant is that there is not sufficient evidence from the experiment conducted to support the conclusion that knot A is weaker than knot B. Certain death. There won't be much data on that.I asked a favour of a friend to get these tested as he had some spare capacity. Sounds like Darwin. Maybe read the 100 or so explanations he’s already given?Dunno about Rich but I clip into both.....easy redundancy with no extra hassle.When you test a rocket, you have already completed a gauntlet of tests of individual subsystems and components, and perhaps some All-Up-Round (AUR) testing that stops short of launching the whole thing. This is only my opinion, which is why I tie with different types of bowline. Sadly, I live in the real world where I work for my gains and try like hell to do things with as much technique and efficiency as I possibly can. I try to save my scrawny ass from falling off the rock or the gym wall by reaching the top before I run out of gas. - A tail doesn't obscure the Fo8> Is there an advantage to a normal Fo8 and a stopper?The results were interesting, the rope failed in all pulls before any knot unrolled and failed, this was between 20-26kn (old well used wall rope).
Then you can tuck the free end back WITH or WITHOUT a twist around the leading strand toward the loop. /u/redlude97 is correct that a Yosemite finish would have the tail end following around the rope before tucking back in. Also to wrap the extra wrap it seems the loaded wouldn't be on the bottom but second from the bottom perhaps making the knot more prone to rolling if another video I've seen on this subject is taken at face value... thanks.I was under the understanding that a barrel knot has the crossing on the outside and a fisherman's knot has it on the inside. This is common technique is accomplished by tucking the end of the rope back into the knot.