The primary reason is it can be untied much more easily than figure-of-eight after taking a fall(s).
The major disadvantages are,
This also applies in reverse, such that when a bowline is untied, it leaves no “residual” knot which has the potential to become stuck if pulled through the anchor in a moment of inattention.Unfortunately, there are quite a few climbers out in the wild who are either unconsciously incompetent (they don’t know that their skills are lacking) or consciously incompetent (they are fully aware of their lack of experience/skill – but choose to run the risk anyway).Before we go any further down the rabbit hole, let’s define what we mean by the term “Bowline”.But the main advantage of bowlines in a climbing context is that they are easy to untie even after significant loading. It’s not because of any prejudice or phobia, it’s simply what I know best – I am confident that I can tie a Figure 8 correctly, even when I’m exhausted and it’s dark and there are boogiemen around. However, I do not think it is less likely to come loose than the standard Bowline.
Scotts Locked Bowline Submitted by Mark Gommers (not verified) on Wed, 2020-05-06 23:04 The link you have provided to 'Scotts locked Bowline' and its alleged failure mode is an example of deliberately spreading disinformation into the public internet space. There is some limited data from a 2016 German study on climbing gym accidents, and the findings reported that “the most serious crashes were all due to mating failures – a proper and consistent partner check could easily prevent such accidents”. It also really does seem to just fall apart with cyclic loading on one of my ropes. You are publishing your article to the world via the internet and as such, you need to make sure that the information you convey is accurate (which it is not). Perhaps one disadvantage, is you have a second chance to mis-thread your harness tie-in loops!Your question is a very good one.
The purported failure modes are not possible in the context of real world climbing.
)Now, I don't think Yosemite Bowline is trustable enough for me.This failure mode can be induced in both orientations of the tail.However, I do not use it during multi-pitch climbing or in winter, because I did notice its tendency to come loose over an extensive period of time, probably after the knot has been rubbed by something surrounding without me noticing.
Scotts locked Bowline is inherently secure … I'm happy with this in a sport context with frequent tieing and untieing.I confess I have been using Yosemite Bowline knot as my harness tying point for well over a decade for indoor or summer single-pitch climbing. Yosemite Bowline knot has served me well so far.The Bowline knot [2018-06016: referring to Asheley's #1 hereafter, unless otherwise mentioned] used to be the most popular knot for climbers for a tying-in point to a harness.
Unlike the Figure 8, they can be tied in a single-stage process, meaning that it isn’t necessary to form the knot before feeding through the harness. What is clear, however, is that you should check yourself (and your buddy) before you wreck yourself.Wouldn’t tie-in with any of those variants… Scotts locked Bowline is inherently secure and fit for purpose. He’s done plenty of trad climbing and El Cap climbing, you can’t dismiss him as a single pitch sport climber.The first is when the tail works its way through the knot, either by cyclical loading, ring loading or slack shaking, all of which occur in varying amounts during climbing. The fact does cast some doubt over its reliability.Thank you for your comment, Mark.
Has anyone attempted to quantify failure rates through incorrect knot tying by knot type?If the style of climbing you enjoy most doesn’t involve regular falls (e.g.
I know a couple of “husky” climbers who have used this, including the irrepressible Mike Law in the current incarnation of his climbing career. Leave it with me and I will see if I can uncover anything useful!
Of the two, the latter is a less important consideration given the strength assessments made above, but it is still worth note. And why? It’s too fiddly and for me I don’t trust myself to get it right. Thanks for the idea Thanks again for your input, it’s certainly welcome! Given that most climbers are more familiar with the Figure 8 as a tie-in knot, most belay partners will generally have no problem identifying faults at a glance. There isn’t much of substance in it.On the other side, Mark Gommer’s paper says the common Yosemite bowline is not as secure as some believe, and has an easy method of mistying.Finally, we have the rethreaded bowline on a bight.
The disadvantage to these knots is that they are often harder to tie and harder to inspect. My one feeling, besides the precision required to tie it, is that if anything it’s too secure, in that it does seem to suffer more from binding than other bowlines.